• November: Still Time to Get Those Bulbs In!

    Don’t worry, there’s still time to get your tulip bulbs planted. By the way, this year, mark their location so that you don’t accidentally disturb them in the spring. Use small stakes or markers, coloured golf tees, or paint the name of the bulb on a rock and place the rock where it’s planted.

  • November: Prune Out Viburnum Leaf Beetle Egg Cases

    Now that the leaves are falling, you will be able to see the egg cases left behind by this year’s viburnum leaf beetle infestation. They are usually found on the underside of the youngest, smallest twigs. You can see images on the Cornell University website here. Simply prune them out.

  • November: Moving Rosemary Indoors

    Rosemary will not survive our cold winters outdoors but can be grown indoors.  Pot it up using an growing medium for containers.  Bring it indoors gradually so that it has time to acclimatize to its new environment – for an hour the first day, then back out to a cool spot.  Increase the time indoors for a week or ten days.  This is similar to the way in which we harden off our seedlings in the spring except that the plant is being moved from outdoors to indoors.

  • November: Living Christmas Trees

    If you are planning to purchase a live Christmas tree, dig the hole now before the ground freezes.  Keep the soil dug out of the hole in a place where it won’t freeze so that you can use it to back-fill the hole when you plant the tree after Christmas.

  • November: Wrapping Tree Trunks

    Young and newly planted trees are vulnerable to both sun-scald and four-legged creatures nibbling on their bark in the winter.  Protect the tender bark by wrapping the trunk with burlap, kraft paper or hardware cloth.  The protection should go from the ground right up to the branches.

  • November: Protecting Young Conifers and Rhododendrons

    Young conifer trees and shrubs as well as rhododendrons need protection from the drying effects of winter winds and sun.  Build a screen using burlap and fence posts to provide protection from the wind on the windward side and from the direct sun on the west and southwest sides.  Don’t wrap them up tightly with burlap because doing so eliminates too much light and packs the branches too closely together.

  • November: Watering Trees and Shrubs

    Trees and shrubs need to be watered until the soil freezes.   This is especially important in seasons where the amount of rainfall has been less than optimal.

  • October: Storing Dahlias

    Dahlia tubers can be kept over the winter for use next spring if stored in the proper conditions – a dry, cool place (5-10 C).  Store them in a container which will allow ventilation.  Line the bottom with a layer of peat moss – place your clump in the peat moss with the stem pointing down.  There can be two layers of tubers in a container.  Cover the top layer with a layer of peat moss.


  • October: Chopping Leaves

    If you don’t have a lawn mower that can be used to chop your leaves, consider putting them in a large garbage pail and using a weed eater to chop them (small amounts at a time).

  • October: Harvesting Winter Squash

    Harvesting winter squash after a light frost will give you a sweeter squash but it will also give you a squash that won’t store as well.  When cutting the squash off the plant, leave a 2-4 cm stem on the squash to prolong storage.  Allow the squash to cure by laying it out in a sunny spot for a week.  Curing will harden the skin so that the squash will store better.