In your gardening guide for roses, what does “Pruning removes potential leaf surface from the rose plant” mean, in your guide to cutting roses?
With Irises and peonies, the plant branching isn’t so complicated, and they bloom over very short periods until next season, making pruning easier.
With roses, I found the parent stem, then found the bud, l<¼ in or less, above the bud,outward and cut. Then I cut dry, diseased, rubbing, crossing, stems.
What happens after that initial pruning, since there are these smaller shoots, but they seem to happen so quickly, and in so many places, so much that the plant configuration changes?
Is this called “suckering” with respect to new canes,as in this video? I’m afraid of cutting and making irreversible mistakes with summer heat competing with my learning curve around pruning roses. One beautiful yellow rose never came back years ago, and I suppose I’m afraid of them all dying off, without the vision of the person in this video, who seems to be planning for the future.
I think I’ve identified the climbing roses, versus the others that just use more common pruning in this link.
How do you remove suckers properly, since the 3rd/4th from the last of this link’s photos suggests some special technique?
By removing some canes along with their potential to produce leaves, the plant energy will be directed to the remaining canes and their leaves thereby shaping the plant’s growth.
In the video link and guide you refer to, the gardener points out that: “Roses, on the other hand, are capable of sending new shoots out of old branches, even if they are size of a tree trunk! This is good news for the novice pruner, for it is nearly impossible to kill a rose by over-pruning. It also means you can rejuvenate older bushes by cutting them nearly all the way to the ground.” You should be getting new shoots from the canes that were pruned. Those new shoots that you are seeing are needed in order to provide new growth for the rose and will form its shape.
However if your rose is a variety that has been grafted onto the root stock of a more vigorous variety, shoots may come up from that part of the root and the colour and leaf type should look different those of the grafted rose. Follow the shoot back into the soil to the root stock and remove it at the point where it meets the root. Since the new sucker is quite pliable, just grasp it close to the root trunk and pull it downward to break the join. If there are buds near the shoot base, remove those as well. See the link below for more information about this type of suckering. They also point out that these suckers should be torn off the root stock not cut off.